Seasonal Fishes 5: Ishigarei/Stone Flounder

Ishigarei, イシガレイ、石鰈 in Japanese, is another popular flatfish/flounder in theis country. For the specialists the Englidh name is stone flounder, and its Latin name Kareus bicoloratus. Interestingly enough these fishes are commonly called flatfishes in Englis, wheeras the Jaapnese write them as “leaf Fishes”!

In Japan, depending upon the region it will be called other names, such as Ishimochi, Ishimochigarei or Shirogarei.
Their season is mainly in Summer in Hokkaido and Eastern Japan, although they might appear a lot earlier in Shizuoka.

Ishigarei is considered the best of all flounders in this country. People generally avoid to catch them during the female egg incubation, but the same egg-bearing fish are a delicacy in Tokyo.

Always choose “lively” specimens when buying them as the taste will soon deteriorate if the fish is not dressed quickly first.
If angler-friend of yours calls on the phone with one of them, don’t discuus and buy the fish!

Stone flounders make for such superlative sashimi that it becomes a bit of a waste to consume in another way.

But who would pass such a Japanese-style carpaccio?

Or an Italian Carpaccio?

Sushi lovers will appreciate it as a sushi nigiri!

A truly extravagant sushi nigiri display. Eat it quickly!

Alright, you were not lucky enough to get it absolutely fresh.
In this case simmer it the Japanese way as Ishigarei Ni (Ni stands for simmer) with soy sauce, sake, mirin and ginger!

Or do it the Italian way with olive oil and dry tomatoes!

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Seasonal Fishes 6: Tachiuo-Scabbard Fish

Scabbard Fish or “Tachiuo” is a summer fish very popular in Japan in spite of its great length.
Tachiuo in Japanese, 太刀魚, means “Great Sword Fish”, not the scabbard!
The Suruga Bay being warmer than the rest of Japan, we have scabbard fish in the dead of winter.
Like other fish it owns other names: Tachi (not in Hokkaido, where the word means ” Cod sperm sacs”!), Shirada and Tachinouo.
It is mainly caught off Wakayama, Ehime and Oita Prefectures.
In Shizuoka it is both caught by line or net.
In 1999, 37,000 tonnes were caught in the whole of Japan, but it fell to 23,000 tonnes in 2000.
It is also imported from Korea and China, although the fish is slightly different from the Japanese variety. More than half of imported fish are eaten west of Kansai.

Scabbard Fish Sashimi Plate

Tachiuo is bot popular raw and cooked.
Raw, it is usually served with ponzu instead of soy suce and topped with momijioroshi/grated daikon mixed with chili pepper.

Raw, it is of course popular as sushi nigiri,

cut into fine strips and served as gunkan.

As sashimi I personally prefer it “aburi” (slightly grilled) with a dash of ponzu and some momijioroshi (grated daikon with chili pepper), or with some finely cut vegetables.

The same applies for sushi nigiri as I like my scabbard fish a little grilled first.

Making incisions into the fish before grilling it will make for another prsentation!

It does not have to be complicated to be yummy!

In the Kansai/western Japan region it is very popular in oshizushi/pressed sushi thanks to its flat and long shape.

How about a combination of both raw and aburi style sushi nigiri?

How about an Italian-style sushi nigiri?

As for the cooked scabbard fish, grilling is the most commoon way here in Japan where it is served as simple and healthy food at many meals.

Sauteed with colourful vegetables (okra) make for great presentation in spite of the simplicity of the dish!

Deep-frying is also very popular especially with its bones when it is very fresh. Such deep-fried bones make for one vital source of calcium for the Japanese.

Fried scabbard fish salad.

Cooked, it is a very versatile fish and easy to prepare!

Grilled with lemon!

Cooked with chili peppers and miso paste, it makes for an intriguing sweet and hot combination!

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Sushi Gadgets

Sushi Erasers!

I’m alway on the lookout for gadgets representing my favourite food, namely sushi!
Not very easy actually, unless I start collecting (or stealing!) the pleastic sushi models you can find in the window displays outsie the cheaper king of sushi restaurants.

Well, I found 3 of them.
All ordered and distributed by Japanese companies but all made in China!

Sorry for the fuzzy pictures but I don’t want to take the contents out unless I can find at least 2 samples of each!

Sushi Magnets!

Sushi (Conveyor Belt Sushi) Stickers!

If you can help with my burgeoning collection, I’ll be very grateful!

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Wild Table visits Hunt’s Point Wholesale Fish Exchange in the Bronx-NY. by Warren Bobrow

You thought that Tsukiji in Tokyo was the one destination to see all the best fish in the world packed into one location!
You will have to think again!LOL

Join Warren Bobrow, Contributing Editor at Wild River Review, on Wild Table visits Hunt’s Point Wholesale Fish Exchange in the Bronx-NY. and leave your comments to encourage him to do even more!

A must-read!

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Wasabi: All You Need To Know!

For all my agnosticism, I sometimes think I am blessed to be born in Dijon, Bourgogne, France and lived in Shizuoka City, the birthplace of Wasabi!

The sign at the entrance of Utogi, the birthplace of wasabi!

Around 1600, farmers in Utougi District, some 33 km from Shizuoka JR Station along the Abe River, first started experimenting with the culture of that particular plant, which they already knew as a wild vegetable used for pickling. At the time they were only processing the stems, leaves and flowers.

Utogi Village

If you want to visit Utogi, where you will find a soba restaurant and other shops as well as the possibility of trekking and festivals watching in April and October, either go by car (55 minutes) or take a bus (Shizuoka JR Station/75 minutes). The trip along the Abe River is worth for its own sake with all the changing landscapes and vistas!
I did it by bicycle, but it took me 5 hours for the return-trip from the city centre and had to push the bicycle along forthe last 3 kilometres. Even a maoutain bike would have made it!

Another view of Utogi

Wasabi Monument in Utogi.

They even have their own “Mon/Arms”!

This is still a very popular kind of pickles in Shizuoka where they are sold in season.
In 1604, Tokugawa Ieyasu, the Japanese Overlord/Shogun, who had just moved to Sumpu (presently Shizuoka City), grew extremely fond of the grated root and helped spread its use all over the country. Its present culture has expanded outside our Prefecture, especially in Nagano, but Shizuoka still produces not only 80% of the whole crop in Japan, and the best wasabi are grown in Utougi and in the Amagi Range in Izu Peninsula.

This gentleman is the 17th generation of the first wasabi growers in Utogi! Check His homepage (Japanese) where you can order a whole array of products! Look at him in his field on youtube!

Tamaruya stand at Haneda Airport

The first and oldest wasabi shop, Tamaruya, is still very much in business in Shizuoka City and even has a stand in Haneda Airport, Shizuoka City!

Wasabi growing is backbreaking work. You need a constant temperature, so you have to be located at a certain altitude (weel over 1,000 metres in some cases) as extreme heat is not welcome, as well as extrem cold.

Pure, soft, constant water is a must. Shizuoka water is known as the best in Japan as demonstrated by its superlative (and rare) sake.

Fields need constant care during the two years it takes for roots to be mature. You can drink the water in these fields without any fear!

WASABI IN JAPANESE CUISINE

If you want to grate your own wasabi, you will need a grater.
The best (above) are made with shark skin!
Grated wasabi is the most common use for the plant, especially with sushi and sashimi.

Wasabi Flowers.

But the stems, leaves and flowers are extensively used.
The leaves can be eaten raw and are great with miso!

The stems are a delicacy marinated in rice vinegar.

Wasabi zuke/wasabi stems and flowers pickled in sake kasu/sake white lees.
Wasabi zuke in Shizuoka is simply extravagant as the sake breweries sell their best white lees/sake kasu (after the sake has been pressed) to the local farmers and producers!

Soon I will post an interesting home-made recipe for wasabi zuke!

The same leaves, once pickled, can be included inside inari zushi for the pleasure of vegans!

Na no hana/rape flowers boiled and seasoned with wasabi mayonnaise.

Now, you might know it, but thinly sliced wasabi root is not as strong as grated wasabi. In Shizuoka, as it is not that expensive, try and ask your favourite sushi chef to cut it in very thin strips and roll as it is in a “maki”. It’s called “namida maki/tear maki” or “bakudan maki/bomb maki” (the real one, not the buster made with grated wasabi!). A favourite of mine!

FRENCH CUISINE

Wasabi is getting more and more popular in French and other cuisines all over the world.
The above dish was created by Dominique Corby a great French Chef who learned his craft at the Tour d’Argent in Paris, among others, before coming to Japan to look after the kitchen of the Sakura Restaurant in the New Otani Hotel in Osaka and of the 6eme Sens in Tokyo.

His cuisine was created with whole wasabi (1 metre long!) i sent him by cool box from Shizuoka.
These are the best grown in Utogi. Very fat, clean, with no black marks and with enormous stems and leaves. Dominique steame the leaves and stems before serving them with fish seasoned with a wasabi sauce reduction from the roots!

FANCY FOODS

Wasabi Dango!

Wasabi comes into many kinds of fancy food for the pleasure of all, young and old!

Wasabi soft Ice-cream!

DERIVATED PRODUCTS

Wasabi comes into a whole array of derivated products worth exploring:

Wasabi Dressing 1

Wasabi Dressing 2

Wasabi dressing is not that strong and can be used in cold and hot/warm dishes.
The Missus uses it extensively with dtir-fried veetables and meat.

Nori/seaweed and miso seasoned with wasabi is another great vegan seasoning!

Wasabi salt by Tamaruya!

Stewed wasabi by Tamaruya!

Wasabi Shochu!

The only true wasabi shochu is made by Bandai Brewery in Shuzenji, Izu peninsula, Shizuoka Prefecture! (don’t be fooled by unscrupulous producers/traders!).

HEALTH FACTS:

-Wasabi is a natural medicinal herb as it contains big amounts of Potassium, Calcium, Magnesium, Vitamin B2 ad C.

-Combined with vinegar, or mustard, or ginger, helps combat fppd poisining, obesity and helps blood flow.

-Combined with Chinese cabbage, or cabbage, or yam, helps combat ulcers and cancer.

-Combine with onion, or leek, or galic chive, helps combat blood vessel ageaing and heart diseases, as well as preserve skin health.

-Combined with chili peppers, or umeboshi/Japanese pickled plums, or orange, or grapefruit, helps appetite and quick illness recovery, helps skin rejuvenation and helps combat ageing.

FOR RESIDENTS AND VISITORS IN SHIZUOKA CITY:

On every first Wednesday of the month, a small but very special fair is held in the basement of Isetan Store in Shizuoka City.
It is called “Shizuoka Utsurogi Ichiba” after a group of farmers residing and conducting business up Abe River in Shizuoka City, up to an altitude of 1,500 metres, around Utogi, the birthplace of wasabi, and still considered the best in the world.
Try to come as soon as Isetan opens as it can become quite a unashamed tussle with all these local grannies fighting for the best morsel!
All products on sale are purely local and practically devoid of industrial fertilizers. It is actually a paradise for vegetarians as only vegetables are represented there. A multitude of succulent and extravagant wasabi pickles, pickled plums, onions, etc.
The names, addresses and even phone numbers of the farmers are clearly stated, making all purchases eminently traceable.

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Seasonal Fish 19: Bora/Mullet

There are at least 12 recognized kinds of mullet being caught all over the world.
The flathead mullet in particular is an important food fish for many around the world, and can be both fished and farmed. The roe of this mullet is salted, dried, and compressed to make a specialty food across the world, such as Korean myeongran jeot, Japanese karasumi, Italian botargo, and Egyptian batarekh . In Egypt, the fish itself is salted, dried, and pickled to make feseekh.

Flathead Mullet, Mugil Cephalus in Latin, or Bora/鯔/鰡 in Japanese will reach length of over 80 cm in Japan, although the average length will more around 50 cm.

It is caught south of Hokkaido near river mouths or in bays receiving lots of river waters.
Like any othe fish, it will be called other names depending upon the region: Isegoi (Western Japan), Itanebora (Ehime Prefecture), Mabora (Hiroshima Prefecture), Tsukura (Okinawa), Kuchime, Mejiro, Hebuna, Haku, Makuchi, Kurome, or Merome.

It is a versatile fish:

Served raw as sashimi in Jpaanese Cuisine or,

as carpaccio in Italian style.

It is more unusual as sushi nigiri (front two) and will probably be found as such only locally.

To answer a query from Luke, it is more encountered cooked:
Deep-fried and served with a soy-based sauce is common to many asian countries.

Deep-fried before being served wit a sweet and saour sauce,

or the same again with tofu is popular in Taiwan (and in Japan!).

First steamed and then served with a sauce made with sweet pickled plum and miso is supposed to be of Chinese origin, but can be found again in many Asians countries.

But for all these recipes, the most valuable (and very expensive at that!) is the roe of the female mullets!

It is served as it is extavagantly in Japanese or Italian cuisine sashimi or carpaccio.

The combinations are infinite!

An extravagant salad of Japanese and Italian inspiration!

Grated over an extragant pasta dish!

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Seasonal Fishes 4: Makogarei/Mako Turbot

“Makogarei” or Pleuronectes yokohamae Gunther for the specialists is one of the many kinds of turbot indigeneous to Japan.
You will find it on the markets between June and August.
Depending where you live, you might do well to know its other names: “Aome” (Sendai), “Mushibirama” (Konahama), “Mako” (Tokyo) or “Amakarei” among many.
It is net-caught all around Japan.

It has comparatively a lot of flesh for a turbot, making it a choice morsel for nigiri or sashimi.

It can reach a length of 30 cm. Contrary to many other fish, the size will bear no incidence on the taste, but if you wish for extra taste, avoid female specimen bearing eggs/roe, and if possible, although a bit extravagant, choose a live fish (possible at Parche, Shizuoka JR Station!).
A good sushi or Japanese restaurant will deep-fry the bones and head for you, making for a great snack with great ale!

As a sushi nigiri, it is served as it is, and can be savoured with a little salt and lemon juice only as seasoning.

Many people also ask their sushi nigiri seasoned with tare/sauce.

One more way is to present it as konbujime/marineated in seaweed.

being a large fish, it can be easily manipulated into bo sugata sushi/baton sushi with the rice inside the fish.

Small specimens are appreciated grilled whole with some lemon, soy sauce and grated daikon.

Another popular cuisine is to stew/simmer the whole fish in soy sauce, mirin and sake as ni-zakana.

The sperm sacs/shirako of the male specimens are much appreciated in European-style cuisine!

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Seasonal Fishes 2: Katsuo/Bonito

Bonito or “katsuo” in Japanese are extensively caught by fishermen from Numazu, Shimizu, Yaizu and Omaezaki Harbours (all Shizuoka Prefecture). The main fishing areas are Shizuoka, Mie, Kochi & Miyazaki Prefectures.
It is also called “katsu” (Tohoku Region), “Honkatsuo” (Kyushu Island), “Magatsuo” (Shikoku and Kyushu Islands. N.B.: the same name designates another fish in other parts of Japan!), “Suji” (Yamaguchi & Wakayam Pref.).
It appears on the markets early Spring~Autumn as “sho gatsuo” (first bonito in Spring) and “modori gatsuo” (return bonito end of Autumn).
They are traditionally line-caught but nets have been used extensively in recent years.

It can be appreciated raw, as sashimi with its skin or without it, preferably served with a saucer of soy sauce (shoyu) mixed with thin slices of fresh garlic, or with wasabi, a touch of lemon and shoyu,

or as nigiri topped with grated fresh ginger a thin slice of garlic, unless you prefer grated fresh ginger with chopped thin leeks.

The same is done with lightly grilled/aburi (or tataki) bonito as sushi nigiri.

Another very popular way to eat it that will please Europeans and North Americans alike, is “tataki”.

The fish is first seared/grilled over charcoal until it is lightly cooked on the whole outside then plunged into iced water to stop it from cooking any longer. It is then cut into large slices and served with freshly chopped garlic and thin leeks, “shiso” leaves (perilla/beefsteak plant) and wasabi.

Note 1: in restaurants specify whether you want the skin or not when ordering sashimi.

Note 2: the same fish is a staple food in Sri Lanka where it is first smoked and then prepared as soup or curry!

It is one of the most versatile fish in Japan.
It can be appreciated in many ways:
As a simple donburi/on a bowl or rice at home (see above picture),

Lightly seared and served as carpaccio,

as bogata sushi/whole fish stuffed with sushi rice,

as oshizushi/pressed sushi,

but my favourite is probably as zuke/marinated in soy sauce, mirin, sake, etc. before being served with a slice of garlic!

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Seasonal Fishes 3: Hirame/Olive Flounder, Bastard Halibut, Tonguefish, Sole

Hirame/平目

“Hirame” could be translated in many ways depending of your country of origin: Flat Fish, Sole, Turbot (although the latter should define “karei”) and what else. There are many varieties, wild or humanーfed. In Japanese, the names are numerous: Hirame, Shitabirame, Ooguchikarei, Oyanirami, etc.

Actually they can be divided into two main groups:

1)The Olive flounder or Bastard halibut (Paralichthys olivaceus; Japanese: ヒラメ/平目) is a species of large-tooth flounder native to the north-western Pacific Ocean.
It is often referred to as the Japanese flatfish or Korea(n) flatfish (광어) when mentioned in the context of those countries.
It is the most common flatfish species raised in aquaculture in Korea. They are raised in Japan and China as well.

Shitabirame/舌平目

2) Tonguefishes (shitabirame/舌平目in Japanese) are a family, Cynoglossidae, of flatfishes. They are distinguished by the presence of a long hook on the snout overhanging the mouth, and the absence of pectoral fins. Their eyes are both on the left side of their body, which also lacks a pelvic fin.

The best season is Autumn to Winter. They are still available until Spring in Shizuoka Prefecture. Wild ones come from Hokkaido and Aomori. Human-fed ones mainly hail from Oita, Ehime, Mie, and Kagoshima Prefectures.

Hirame Sashimi

The domestic wild catch is around 7600 tonnes a year, while human-fed fish amount to around 7100 tonnes a year. A recent increase has been observed in recent years, though. A lot are imported from Korea through Fukuoka and Shimoseki.
They are found in tropical and subtropical oceans, mainly in shallow waters and estuaries, though a few species found in deep sea floors, and a few in rivers.

Hirame can be enjoyed in many ways:
As sashimi, cut in various thickness, according to the chef’s preference and presented artfully.

It can be enjoyed cut in small dices, as tartare, especially shitabirame/tonguefish with tomato and strawberry!

Of course, hiirame is great as sushi nigiri with all kinds of seasoning I prefer it just seasoned with a little lemon juice or yuzu (if available) and salt (preferably “snow salt” from Okinawa!

The Japanese have a fondness for “engawa”, that is the frilled border along the fillets which are usually thrown away in other countries. The texture is different, almost crunchy.

Hirame is great marinated with konbu/seaweed as konbujime/seaweed marinated.

The same konbujime hirame can be served as oshizushi/pressed sushi topped with more seaweed!

An interesting oshizusshi combination is hirame topped with kabu/turnip and seasoned with yuzu juice and zest!

It is also very popular dried as himono/干物, especially shitabirame/tonguefish.

Naturally the Japanese all kinds of hirame cooked in the French way in a simple and succulent manner as above,

or as a beautiful gratin!

Last, but not least, how about grilled hirame with uni/sea urchin sauce?

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Sushi Millefeuille: The Recipe (with Vegan Option)

Following the kind comments of the creators of such beautiful blogs as Gourmet Fury, Bread + Butter, Dhaleb, Reg And Mitzi, Island Vittles and many other friends, I thought the time was ripe to post a couple of simple but colorful sushi recipes than can be easily expanded for home parties and impress your guests!

My vegan and vegetarian friends should not worry as I have explained possible adaptations according to their priorities at the end of such postings!

Here is the second one:
Sushi Millefeuille!

INGREDIENTS (& ADVICE):

Once again need to be too precise about exact quantities here as personal tastes can (and ought to) be different!

First combination (see above picture):

-Sushi rice: as much as you will need (freshly made. See sushi rice recipe HERE)

-Fish: tuna for the red part
-Cucumbers: sliced very thin for the first green part under the tuna.
-Avocado: for the second green part under the tuna (choose ripe avocad)
-Tobikko: Flying fish roe for the topping (if unavailable, can be replaced with salmon roe or finely chopped sweet red pimento.
-Mayonnaise.
Now, if you don’t like it, make a thick dressing. The trick is to make a simple vinaigrette with a lot of soft Dijon mustrd which will give it consistency.
Mayonnaise sold over the counter can be cloying sweet. I would make my own, which is not difficult at all: one egg yolk + salt + pepper + vinegar.
Whisk them all until smooth. Add and whisk in olive oil little by little until you have enough. Point: all ingredients must be at room temperature!
I add some wasabi to it for extra taste!
-Thin leeks for decoration.

RECIPE:

-On a large enough individual serving plate place a large enough cake circle in the middle.

-Fill one quarter/third with sushi rice.

-Lay one layer of fine cucumber slices.

-Lay one layer of sliced ripe avocado.

-Lay one layer of sliced tuna.

-Fill to the brim with another layer of sushi rice and press.

-Top with a layer of tobikko/flying fish roe.

-Decorate with a couple of thin leeks, mayonnaise around the millefeuille and some tomatoes.

Second combination (see above picture):

-Sushi rice.

-Kanpachi/Amberjack (if not available use white fleshed raw fish such as sole, halibut, seabream, etc.)

-Herring roe/Kazu no Ko

-Cucumbers: sliced

-Dry bonito shavings/katsuo bushi

-Thin leeks: finely chopped.

-Mayonnaise

-Tobikko/Flying Fish roe or salmon roe

RECIPE:

-On a large enough individual serving plate place a large enough cake circle in the middle.

-Fill one quarter/third with sushi rice.

-Lay one layer of Kanpachi/Japanese Amberjack or white-fleshed fish.

-Lay one layer of kazu no Ko/herring roe.

-Lay one layer of sliced cucumbers.

-Fill to the brim with another layer of sushi rice and press.

-Top with a layer of Katsuo bushi/Dry bonito shavings and plenty of chopped leeks.

-Decorate with mayonnaise and tobikko around the millefeuille.

There are of course plenty of scope left for improvisation!

VEGAN OPTION:

-Skip the Tobikko/Flying Fish roe. Replace with very finely chopped sweet red pimento.

-As for the mayonnaise, use a vegan subsititute or make a dressing like I suggested above.

-Instead of fish use layers made of cooked carrot or kabocha.
Grilled, peeled and cooled down sweet red pimento also make for great taste and colourful grading.

Naturally boiled and cut to practicality brocoli, asparaguses, violet sweet potatoes and so forth can be combined into a colourful creation!

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First Visit of the Year at Sushi Ko, Shizuoka

Last night we paid our first visit to our favourite sushi restarant in Shizuoka City, namely Sushi Ko!
Sushi Ko might not be the most expensive or sophisticated sushi restaurant in our Prefecture but you get the best food at the best price there.
It certainly makes for far better value than some vaunted establishments in Tokyo or New York where you pay ridiculous prices for tiny pieces of art in outrageously expensive surroundings!
Moreover, Mr. Oda is one of those very few true chefs who take pleasure in tackling any challenge thrown at him by customers.
Owning a website of his own and knowing I’m more than amenable with his taking pictures of the food I order, we have this great deal of being offered even better presentation!
When it comes to sashimi, Mr. Oda always makes a point to introduce the seasonal fish of the day on a separate board for all to see, meaning that they will not be always available as contrary to the other possible orders written (with their prices!) on small wooden boards hung on the wall above the counter.

There were too many fish to choose from, but the help of Mr. Oda, we chose the following:

Above: Meji maguro Akami/Lean part.
Bottom: Aori Ika/Bigfin Reef Squid.
Can you see the freshly grated Shizuoka wasabi shaped into a green leaf?

Above: Ooma Honmaguro/Ble Fin Tuna from Ooma in Aomori Prefecture, O-toro
Below: the same, chu-toro.
The chrysanthemum is edible.

Above: Meji maguro o-toro
Below: Kinmeidai/Seabream/Great Alfonsino from Izu Penisula in Shizuoka Prefecture.

Actually this was our second restaurant of the night!
Therefore we ordered more the indivual morsel than the quantity.
The sushi nigiri above is tachiuo aburi/half grilled scabbard fish served with ponzu and momijioroshi.

The fish was so fresh that we were offered its bones deep-fried! Great snack!

The Missus had to order (she does every time!) the Spicy scallops sushi roll!

As I said above, Mr. Oda is one of those very few true chefs who take pleasure in tackling any challenge thrown at him by customers.
He knows that I will always ask him to come with a vegan sushi plate not only to demonstrate that such gastronomy exists, but also to lure more customers to his business, which is quite flourishing.

Here what he concocted for us. Sorry for the slightly fuzzy pictures, but I had to contend with an impatient Missus!

These rolls were made with thin wide strips of daikon that mr. Oda quickly marinated in lemon water instead of using dry nori/seaweed.
Inside he rolled sushi rice (shari) with trefoil stems, umeboshi/pickled Japanese plum meat and shiso/perilla leaves!

Buckwheat sprouts/Hime Soba Me/姫蕎麦芽 Nigiri!

Thin leek sprouts/Me Negi/芽葱 Nigiri!

Trefoil/Mitsuba/三つ葉 Nigiri!

As for the last dish, we both have our habits.
I had tamagoyaki/Japanese Omelette,

And the Missus had her mini ikura/salmon roe and shake/salmon oyako/parent and child mini-donburi!

Looking forward to the next visit!

Sushi Ko
shizuoka City, Aoi Ku, Ryogae-cho. 2-3-1 (Aoba Koen)
Tel.: 054-2512898
Business Hours: 17:00~25:00. 17:00~23:00 (Sundays)
Closed on Wednesdays
Reservations recommended
Credit cards OK
HOMEPAGE (Japanese)

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Seasonal Fishes 1: Noresore/Conger Eel Whitebait (expanded)

noresore4.jpg

“Noresore” will soon appear at some select fish markets, and as it will be a very short season, you will have to keep your eyes open!
Noresore stands for very young conger eels. They are called different names depending on regions: “Berada” in Okayama Pref., “Tachikurage” in Misaki, “Nagatankurage” in Wakayama Pref.
In Shizuoka, they mainly come from Hamana Lake, a seawater lake west of the Prefecture, famous for its oysters, eels and clams.

5~6cm long, they are practically transparent, save for their eyes. They emit no smell. In our Prefecture they are available only during the first two weeks of March. They are slowly but surely becoming a rarity wherever in Japan, and people come from afar just for the experience!

Before serving them, lightly wash them in clean salted water.
They are great as they are with a little “ponzu or “yuzu” vinegar, a dash of “momijioroshi” (freshly grated daikon and chili pepper) and some chopped thin leeks for a last touch of colour!

Now as sushi they are sublime as “gunkan”, or a rice ball wrapped in seaweed if you are an expert, with freshly grated ginger and chopped thin leeks again.

They can even been cooked (very quickly!) in garlic olive oil!

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Japanese Seasonal Fish 18: Tai-Madai/Seabream

There are many varieties of Seabream/Snappers/Tai/鯛in Japan:
Batodai, Hanadai, Ishidai, Kinmeidai, Mekkidai, etc., but the most popular variety is called Madai/真鯛, or True Seabream.

Even Madai/True Seabream is called different names depending upon the region: Oodai or Hondai.
The best season streches from Winter to Spring.
It is extensively raised by humans in Ehime, Mie and Saga Prefectures.
Wild specimen are mainly caught off the shores of Nagasaki, Fukuok, Kumamoto, and Yamaguchi Prefectures. Not so many Madai are caught in Shizuoka but other varieties are abundant especially around Izu Penisula.

Human-raised amount to over 80,000 tonnes a year wild ones are caught at a rate inferior to 15,000 tonnes a year.
Imports are relatively and account for only about 6.500 tonnes a year.

Madai is widely appreciated raw as sashimi in the Japanese style (above),

in carpaccio, Italian-style sashimi!

The Japanese also ove them grilled or steamed.

The Japanese since immemorial times have preserved the raw fish in rice miso, mirin/sweet sake and konbu/seaweed, but this has become quite an expensive morsel these days!

(Only relatively) lesser varieties, like Kinmedai, are appreciated as Himono/naturally dried fish, a specilaty of Shizuoka Prefecture which produces no less half of all naturally dried fish in Japan! Actually they come almost as expensive!

Konbujime/marinated in seaweed nigiri sushi

As sushi, madai (and other seabreams) are very versatile.
You will encounter them, depending on the region as konbujime/marinated in seaweed (above),

simple, straight nigiri sushi,

oshizushi/pressed sushi,

or zuke/marinated in ponzu, sake, mirin, etc.,

Seabream certainly looks great as temarizushi/Kyoto-style small round sushi nigiri!

Tai Shirako

Like tara/cod, their sperm sacs of the male specimens are highly appreciated and even more expensive than those of cods.

You can have served raw/slightly boiled or grilled as above,

meuniere-style as in French or Italian cuisine,

or on gunkan sushi nigiri!

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Sushi Recipes: Spicy Scallops Sushi Roll (with Vegan Option)

Following the kind comments of the creators of such beautiful blogs as Gourmet Fury, Bread + Butter, Dhaleb, Reg And Mitzi, and many other friends, I thought the time was ripe to post a couple of simple but colorful sushi recipes than can be easily expanded for home parties and impress your guests!

My vegan and vegetarian friends should not worry as I have explined possible adaptations according to their priorities at the end of such postings!

Here is the first one:
Spicy Scallops Sushi Roll!

INGREDIENTS (& ADVICE):

No need to be too precise about exact quantities here as personal tastes can (and ought to) be different!

-Sushi rice: as much as you will need (freshly made. See sushi rice recipe HERE)

-Nori/dry seaweed: use large sheets (maximum size)

-Scallops: Only fresh, please.

-Tobikko (Flying Fish roe): as fresh as possible.

-Tempura kasu: these are the pieces of batter found in the oil after frying tenpura. The Japanese do not throw them away! Scoop them out as early as possible and lay them on a piece of paper kitchen to take off excess oil. Let them cool completely. If you do use them immediately, store them by dee-freezing them inside an airtight vinyl pouch!

-Coarsely cruched peanuts. These with the tenpura kasu will add a welcome crunchiness.

-Mayonnaise.
Now, if you don’t like it, make a thick dressing. The trick is to make a simple vinaigrette with a lot of soft Dijon mustrd which will give it consistency.
Mayonnaise sold over the counter can cloying sweet. I would make my own, which is not difficult at all: one egg yolk + salt + pepper + vinegar.
Whisk them all until smooth. Add and whisk in olive oil little by little until you have enough. Point: all ingredients must be at room temperature!
I add some wasabi to it for extra taste!

-Chili pepper powder.

-Cucumber: finely chopped. Cut the cucumber in 5 cm, 2-inch long pieces. Cut each piece into thin slices. Cut the slices again into very fine strips.

RECIPE:

-In a bowl drop the scallops cut into small pieces. Add the tobikko/Flyiing Fish roe, tempura kasu, crushed peanuts, mayonnaise and chili pepper. Mix well. Taste and rectify the seasoning if needed.

-Spread a large sushi roll mat out and cover it with a sheet of nori/dry seaweed.

-Spread a layer of sushi rice over the whole nori/dry seaweed as equally as possible. Careful with the quantity. Too much and you won’t be able to roll it!

-Leave a small strip space at one extremity. Line with the cucumber in a half centimetre/less than half an inch wide strip.

-Leave a space between the cucumber and scallops mixture to obtain the same pattern as shown in above picture. Spread the scallops evenly. Leave a space at the other extremity to allow for a tight closing of the roll.

-Carefully roll the sushi from the cucmber end. Once completely rolled, pressed gently and evenly so as to allow the nori/seaweed to seal the roll.

-Unroll the mat. Cut the roll and serve at once.

-There is no real need for extra soy sauce or whatever dessing, but this a personal taste.

VEGAN OPTION:

-Skip the Tobikko/Flying Fish roe. Replace with very finely chopped sweet red pimento.

-Instead of using scallops, use mushrooms. White coloured and soft varieties such as button mushrooms, shimeji or even eringi are best.
Cut the mushrooms and sprinkle with lemon juice to prevent them from darkening.
Fry them in olive oil until they are soft.
Let them cool completely and drain them thoroughly.
Do not throw the juices away as they can be used in delicious sauces or soups.

-As for the mayonnaise, use a vegan subsititute or make a dressing like I suggested above.

NOTES:

Do not be afraid of varying that recipe. It is very simple!

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Sushi Recipes: Spam California Roll

Back into spam!
Bazooka Gourmet is going to kill for that one!LOL
Making the most of simple ingredients to create that ever popular Clifornai Roll!

INGREDIENTS:

-Sapm: 1 can
-Eggs: 2
-Avocado: 1 (ripe)
-Nori/dry seaweed (as much as needed)
-Sesame seeds (as much as needed)
-Mayonnaise (as much as needed)
-Rice: 2 large bowls (freshly made. See sushi rice recipe HERE)
-Salt, pepper: to taste

RECIPE:

-Cut spam into strips and fry.

-Prepare the eggs as tamagoyaki/Japanese omelette and cut as shown in above picture. Check HERE for basic Tamagoyaki recipe!

-Cut avocado as in above picture and let them for a while in some water added with lemon juice. This will prevent the avocado turning brown.

-First spread a sheet of cellophane paper over a sushi roll mat. Then spread sushi rice over it evenly and not too thickly!.

-Spread dry seaweed sheets over the rice.

-Place the sapm, tamgoyaki and avocado as shown in above picture at some distance from the extremity. Line with some mayonnaise.
Point: mix some grated wasabi with the mayonnaise first!

-Roll your Californai roll.
Unwrap and sprinkle it sesame seeds as shown in above picture.

-Cut and serve!

NOTES:

-The rice can be simple slightly salted steamed rice instead of the sushi rice.
-Tamagoyaki can be made in thin wide omelette you will roll first before lining the California roll with it.
-Let your imagination go free if you want to replace the sesame seeds with something else!

Easy, isn’t it?

RECOMMENDED RELATED SITES:
Warren Bobrow
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Bread + Butter
5 Star Foodie
Frank Fariello
Elinluv Tidbit Corner
Tokyo Terrace
Maison de Christina
Chrys Niles
Comestilblog
Greedy Girl
Bouchon For 2
Sushi Nomads

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